Some Thoughts On Planting Roses
- Author Marie K Fisher
- Published December 12, 2005
- Word count 1,160
Although all kinds of gardening is my passion in life, nothing
but nothing gives me greater pleasure than my beautiful rose
garden. They are just so stunning, and I do really love the
colors and the amazing varieties which are available.
To get the best from your rose garden however there are quite a
few important pointers to bear in mind, and I would like to
share some of these with you.
When the spring comes and the ground is thawed it is time to
start planting your rose garden. Roses have actually been a
cherished aphrodisiac since biblical times, and have been
around for over 3000 years. Despite this, they still hold a
particular mystery and fascination, not to mention the fact
that they look and smell fantastic.
One of the most important rules of growing roses is to plant
the rose bush in an area that receives around 4 to 6 hours of
sunlight every day. It is also advisable not to plant too many
trees or other plants around the rose bush, because many of
these are likely to either mix with the rose or stifle it's
growth. If you are replacing an old rose bush, approximately
1-1/2 cubic feet of old soil should be removed, and fresh soil
added to replace it. When positioning your rose in the garden
or landscape, make sure that you consider the growth
characteristics of the rose in question.
To give you an example, place climbers and ramblers along
fences, trellises, or next to arches or pergolas. This location
offers them unrestricted growth and greatly increases the
potential for some superb looking blooms.
Roses also look really beautiful in island beds mixed in with
perennials, and miniature roses make great edging plants in
front of the taller varieties. If you plant them singly, shrub
roses can make excellent specimen plants, or they can be
clustered to make a flowering hedge. You can also use them to
camouflage unsightly parts of your garden.
Dig a hole large enough for the root mass, and loosen the
bottom of the hole. I suggest that you should also add some
bone meal which is a slow acting source of phosphorus. This
leads to healthy root growth in the rose plant.
The plant should then be placed in the hole very carefully and
the hole refilled with soil, making sure that the roots are
properly covered. Water the rose plant well, and let it absorb
the water before applying the final covering of soil. When this
has been completed, water the plant some more and create a mound
of soil about 6 inches high. The dome will keep the stems from
drying out until the plant is rooted. Gradually remove the
excess soil as the leaves start to open.
Special care should be taken with the planting depth, which
varies considerably according to the climate you live in.
If you live in a colder area, plant a bit deeper and consult
with other people growing roses in your area. If you are buying
potted roses, you should plant them about 1 inch deeper than
their potted level. The best time to plant roses varies
depending on the winter temperature.
Where temperatures don't drop below -10 degrees F in either
fall or spring, planting is satisfactory. If you live in an
area where winter temperatures drop below -10 degrees F, spring
planting is preferable. Plants should be planted in a dormant
condition if purchased bare root, but container grown plants
may be planted throughout the growing season.
Spacing of the rose plant is highly influenced by the
temperature. In regions where winters are severe, the rose
plant does not grow so large as when in mild climates. Taking
this into consideration, hybrid tea roses should be spaced
1-1/2 to 3 feet apart, but large vigorous growers such as
hybrid perpetuals will need 3 to 5 feet of space, while the
climbers need from 8 to 10 feet of space.
If the winter temperature is below 10 degrees F, roses can grow
healthily if proper care is taken, so the gardener must be
prepared to endure that cold and probably wet experience. In
colder areas, roses enjoy their last fertilization of the
season by August 15th or thereabouts.
These few pointers will help to ensure that your roses grow
well, and bloom nicely all summer long.
I would also like to share with you a few important additional
thoughts on how you can avoid the diseases which can attack
your roses.
To make sure that your most prized roses are in the pink or
even red of their health, simply follow these tips on dealing
with the most common rose health problems.
Black Spots On Leaves.
This disease is commonly known as black spot. Black spots
appear as circular with fringed edges on the leaves, and they
cause them to yellow. The solution is to remove the infected
foliage and pick up any fallen leaves around the rose.
Artificial sprays can be used to prevent or treat this kind of
rose disease.
Stunted Or Malformed Young Canes.
Known as powdery mildew, this is a fungal disease that covers
leaves stems and buds with wind spread white powder. It makes
the leaves curl and turn purple. Spray with Funginex or Benomyl
to treat this particular disease which could totally ruin your
rose garden.
Blistered Underside Of Leaves.
A disease of roses known as rust, it is characterized with
orange-red blisters that turn black in fall. In spring it will
attack the new sprouts, and this disease can even survive the
winter.
What you should do is to collect and discard leaves that are
infected in fall, and also spraying Benomyl and Funginex every
7-10 days will help.
Malformed Or Stunted Leaves And Flowers
The one most likely cause of this is the presence of spider
mites. These are tiny yellow red or green spiders which cling
to the underside of the leaves. They will suck the juices from
the leaves, but the application of Orthene or Isotox may help
in treating this infestation.
Weak And Mottled Leaves Showing Tiny White Webs Underneath.
This might be caused by aphids, which are small soft-bodied
insects which are usually brown green or red. Often found
clustered under leaves and flower buds, they suck plant juices
from tender buds. However Malathion or Diazinon spray may help
roses to survive these bugs.
Flowers That Do Not Open Or Are Deformed When They Do Open.
Thrips could be the reason behind this deformation and unopened
flowers, which is characterized with slender brown-yellow bugs
with fringed wings thriving in the flower buds. They will also
suck the juices from the flower buds, so therefore you should
cut and discard all infested flowers. Using Orthene and
Malathion will also treat this health problem with your roses.
I do hope that the information I have given you regarding the
diseases that you can find in roses will prove very helpful in
making your rose gardening more rewarding and fruitful.
Marie K Fisher is an avid gardening
enthusiast with a passion for exotic flowers and wonderful
colors. She is a regular contributor to Garden Center Showplace
a leading online Garden Center. For more details of the superb
range of products offered, and also more Featured Articles and
Tips on Gardening visit http://www.gardencentershowplace.com
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