Chichén Itzá, (pronounced, Cheechen eetZA) is perhaps the best known Mayan archaeological site on the Yucatan peninsula, Mexico, leading Palenque, in Chiapas, Mexico, Tikal in Guatemala and Copan in Honduras. Thought to be built on the site of a prior Mayan settlement, the city was at its height from around AD 980 to 1220, preceding the Toltecs from central Mexico, who settled here. Many ruins of important buildings remain from this time. These include the Castillo and other temples with sculptures and color reliefs, an observatory, and a sacred well (cenote), into which sacrifices, including human beings, were thrown.

History of Chichén Itzá

It is believed that Chichén Itzá was founded by the Putún Maya from the coastal region of the Gulf of Mexico in around 850 AD. Later the Toltec took over and they modeled many of the buildings to those of their former capital at Tula. Different styles of architecture are found in different Mayan regions, all based on the differences in culture and resources available for the establishment of the settlements. What you will find in Palenque will be very different from what you will find in Copan; just as the structure of architecture, design and layout will be different in Chichén Itzá from that in Tikal. Toltec rule ended when the city fell to Hunac Ceel, ruler of the neighbouring city-state of Mayapán, in 1221.

Upon the arrival of the Spanish in the 16th century, the site had long been abandoned and fallen into ruin, the Maya that build and used the pyramids never saw Spanish ships coming to the new land as Mel Gibson would like to think. One theory suggests that many of the Maya from the larger settlements, namely Chichén Itzá Palenque, Tikal and Copan, left and migrated deeper into the jungle. The reason for this is still unknown, but it is often suggested that lack agricultural resources was one of the causes.

It is interesting to note that the Mexican government established a highway that went right through the site in 1983, but for ecological, and not so much archaeological reasons, this part of the highway was closed, and a bypass was built north of the site. The hotels on the east side can be reached by taking the bypass and then heading back toward the site (west) on the old section of Highway 180 that is still open for local traffic.

The site

Chichén Itzá has three main components that create the layout of the site:

(1) The North End structures, divided by the highway

(2) The South End structures divided by the highway

(3) "Old Chichén.": groups of structures even further south.

Architecture and Knowledge

A literary Tour of Chichén Itzá

There are two principal styles of public architecture at Chichén Itzá. The first is a local variant of the Puuc style found at sites in west-central Yucatán and northeastern Campeche. The other style, according to Peter J. Schmidt, "is partly derived from the same roots but is vastly enriched by elements and concepts from other parts of Mesoamerica, notably the Gulf Coast, Oaxaca, and central México". Early investigators of Chichén Itzá proposed that Puuc-style traits were "Maya" and the features of the "Toltec" style include serpent columns, Chac Mools, Atlantean figures, serpent heads at the top of alfardas, tzompontlis, and carvings of processions of warriors, among others, much like those found in Copan and Tikal.

Architecturally, this style embodies stepped pyramids dance platforms with stairs on all four sides, large columned porticoes, gallery-patio compounds, as well as other features.

While Mexican influence is clearly present at Chichén Itzá, Schmidt believes that "continuity of construction techniques, residential systems, and other features of daily life, such as ceramic vessel types, argue for the continued Maya character of Chichén Itzá, Tikal and Palenque."

The North End structures

Approaching from the west end of Chichén Itzá, El Castillo-also called the Temple of Kukulcán- towers over the region and is visible from afar. The pyramid was said to have been built in honor of Kukulcan, the serpent of agriculture. The Mayans of the region built it such that on the second equinox of the year a serpent would form created by the sun’s angle and perfect isosceles triangles casting its shadow…expressing the movement of a giant serpent of sun and shadow coming down the temple to fertilize the soils of Chichén Itzá.

Nearby El Castillo, a square-based stepped pyramid about 75 feet tall, stands crowned by a temple. It originally had stairways on all four sides; two of these have been restored. The visible structure covers a smaller, earlier one (of similar plan), and some interesting sculpture is found on the inside of the latter. The inner structure was discovered during excavation. A tunnel was cut into the outer structure, and a stairway was located, which is the entrance to the inner structure. The entrance is at the base of the north side of El Castillo, but the inner temple can be visited only during certain hours. Check as you enter the site, as the schedule is subject to change. Also, check on the open hours for the interior structure of the Temple of the Warriors and the painted chamber of the Temple of the Jaguars. The open hours of the three do not overlap; you can probably work all three into your schedule if you plan ahead.

Climbing the exterior of El Castillo is very pleasant for it offers delightful views of the north section of the site. This temple is composed of a pyramidal base rising in three tiers, with a temple on top, approached by a stairway on the west side. There is a large colonnade of stone pillars carved with figures of warriors at the base of the structure on the west side.

Upon getting to the entrance of the temple a Chac Mool and two beautifully carved serpent columns' at the rear and small Atlantean figures rest supporting an altar. The facade of the temple has sculptures depicting Chac, the Maya rain god. The Temple of the Warriors also had at least two construction phases. There is an earlier inner temple, with pillars sculptured in bas-relief, which retain much of their original color, and murals once adorned the walls of the inner structure. There are also a Chac Mool and the heads of serpent columns inside.

The other structure of interest in this area is the Mercado, or Market, on the south side of the courtyard, build on a slightly elevated platform, much like you would find in Palenque or Tikal, where the center of the urban developments always created a special place for commerce.

The Sacred Cenote is not a structure created by the Mayan of Chichén Itzá, but a natural formation created by an underground river system that continues to foster tropical growth on the Yucatan peninsula. Although natural, it may have been altered to achieve its nearly circular shape. It is worth noting the coincidence in relationship between the location of establishments -Palenque and Copan, to name a couple- and the existence of cenotes. There are several theories that explain the function and reverence paid to the mysterious "dznot" or hole (Mayan) in the ground. About 180 feet in diameter and sides, 80 feet in depth above the water level, the Sacred Cenote was apparently not used as a water supply but was reserved for rituals and human sacrifice involving the rain god. The notion that the sacrificed victims were all beautiful young virgins was disproved when human remains of young children and older adults, both male and female, were discovered. The Sacred Cenote is in a depression, and the surrounding dense vegetation cuts off most of the air. On a still day, the heavy atmosphere and buzzing insects can create a hypnotic effect, and one con easily imagine this as a place of human sacrifice. The remains of a small temple on the edge of the cenote are very similar to those found in Topoxte, Guatemala, somewhat near the area of Tikal.

Due north of the cenote is the Skull Rack, or Tzompantli. The sides are covered with bas-reliefs; some depict skulls in profile, except for the corners, where they are shown full face. Oddly enough, each is different from the other and appears to have its own personality. Other bas-reliefs show warriors in full regalia. Two Chac Mools were excavated from the platform.

To the west to the Great Ball Court, or Poctapoc, the largest in Mesoamerica' its walls measure 272 feet long, but the playing area extends some distance beyond. There are interesting bas-relief carvings on the lower walls of the ball court depicting ball game activities and ritual sacrifice. A small temple lies at each end of the ball court, and from in front of the north temple (the Temple of the Bearded Man) a person speaking in a natural voice reportedly can be heard at the other end of the court, about 150 yards away. What’s most interesting about this game is that the captain of the two opposing teams (shadow and light) was sacrificed. It is believed that they had a place within the neighboring structure of the Temple of Warriors.

There are two columns at the entrance to the one-room temple, and these, the interior walls, to the Temple of the Bearded Man are some remains of red paint, and this emphasizes the carvings. The larger temple at the south end of the ball court also has remains of columns with carvings, but the walls and vault surfaces are plain.

When you return to the plaza level, you can enter a chamber below the Temple of the Jaguars that faces east. It has polychrome bas-reliefs on pillars, walls, and vault in a good state of preservation and a simple three dimensional sculpture of a jaguar, possibly a throne.