In August, Muslims usher in the holy month of Ramadan, a time of fasting and prayer that quiets the normally frenetic country. At least during the scorching daylight hours as devotees eschew food and drink. The country kicks into overdrive after the sunset as families breaks the fast with elaborate meals and they head-out and socialize into the wee hours of the morning.

This ebb and flow makes Ramadan a unique and exciting time to visit Egypt.

Ramadan the ninth month on Islam's lunar calendar is expected to start around August 20 (marked by the appearance of the new moon, every year it retreats roughly 11 days on the Gregorian calendar). This is normally the summer holiday season, with capital dwellers flocking to the relatively cooler climes of the North Coast and its Mediterranean waters or the Red sea resorts such as Sharm-El-Sheikh.

The onset of the holy month means the dynamic will be different, but the destinations remain the same.

CAIRO

During Ramadan, the capital is a whirl of activity. During the summer arrival of the holy month this year, however, Cairo is set to be a quiet town relatively speaking.

This offers a rare chance to see Cairo best-known sites without a crush of tourists. Top on the list of must-see attractions are the pyramids at Giza, the imposing Citadel of Salah El-Din, and the landmark Cairo tower on the island of Gezirah.

During Ramadan, the city's nightlife usually hums along at a frenzied pace. A highlight is Al-Hussein Square in front of Khan El Khalili, where most restaurants offer special menus for iftar (the meal to break the fast). There is something magical about being in Islamic Cairo, waiting patiently in the hush for the izzan (call to prayer) that signals the time to break the fast.

As the sun dips below the horizon, the words "Allah hu Akbar"(God is great) flow melodically across the city, from the minarets of Al-Azhar across from Al Hussein to the tiniest corner mosque in the furthest suburbs.

Areas around the major mosques such as Al Hussein and Sultan Hassan host entertainment ranging from Sufi dancing to Qur'an recitals, with plenty of opportunities to share in the fellowship of the holy month. In addition to Al-Azhar and Al-Hussein mosques, the most popular sites for the tarawih (special nighttime prayers held during Ramadan) are Mustafa Mahmoud Mosque in Mohandiseen and Amr Ibn Al-Aas mosque in old Cairo.

Cultural centers such as Cairo Opera House and El-Sawy Cultural Wheel, both on the island of Gezirah, also offer special music programs for Ramadan.

For a more strictly social time, most hotels host brightly colored Ramadan tents with Oriental drinks, snacks, music and dancing while away the time between iftar and sohour (the meal before the fast starts).

THE NORTH COAST

Alexandria, Egypt's second city and home to 5 million people, is always a pleasant place to explore. During the summer, nearly everyone heads to the beaches, freeing up the roads if this majestic city. You can stroll along the Corniche to visit the stunning Biblioteca Alexandrina, home to a planetarium, art exhibits and museums dedicated to archeological artifacts, ancient manuscripts and even movie costumes. Alternatively, head toward the center of town to the Alexandria National Museum with 4,500 years of artifacts, or the Mahmoud Said Museum with its collection of modern art, located in the Loran neighborhood bear San Stefano.

As sunset approaches, head down to the sea front for a meal of freshly caught fish, one of Egypt's true gastronomic pleasures. There's nothing better than celebrating iftar amid cool Mediterranean breezes and the sound of waves crashing onto the shore.

For some after-dinner fun, head to Alexandria's nighttime entertainment hubs: Morsi Aboul Abbas Mosque (also popular for tarawih prayers) along the Eastern Harbor, El-Montazah Gardens at the far eastern end of the city, or the western suburb of Agamy. If you walk along the Corniche, you might spot a festival or celebration- there is always one nearby during Ramadan.

Seaside resorts and a few five-star hotels dominate the rest of the North Coast stretching toward Marsa Matruh. In the morning during Ramadan, the entire coast is likely to be as active as a bear in hibernation, but there are worse ways to spend tge day than sitting on a perfect beach and contemplating life with a good or holy book. Come evening, resorts such as Marina, Marasi and Almaza Bay each have numerous restaurants for breaking the fast, followed by beach side parties that last longer than the moonlight. For a quieter evening, the city of Marsa Matruh has a more laid-back atmosphere.

THE RED SEA

Popular among Arabs and non-Arabs alike, Sharm El Sheikh and Hurghada offer plenty of beach-based entertainment day and night, but spending Ramadan in these holiday hotspots is all about planning ahead; rooms here tend to fill quickly. The holy month does not deter dive and desert guides, so it is business as usual for the ever-popular boat and safari excursions.

In Sharm, the pedestrian section of Na'ama Bay is the all-night hangout, with plenty of outdoor cafes to enjoy the evening air. In Hurghada, where most resorts specialize in the all-inclusive vacation, the party is likely to be right there at your hotel. The beat also goes on at all the clubs and discos, so check with your hotel about the best places to see and be seen.